Тема: Тормоза(обсуждение,вопросы), Brembo, JBT, Rotora, DBA, Прома, Ferodo, HAWK и т.д

[drifter]

г35 не G35 ????

[nikola]

Мужики, а ставил кто-нибудь себе колодки ротора?

[Fortrix]

Мужики, а ставил кто-нибудь себе колодки ротора?

Это тож самое что и колодки JBT
(скорее всего)

[Romario]

вобще интереснокак себя ведут колодки ротора и диски этой же фирмы?
если сравнить их, скажем с DBA

[JBT BRAKES]

все будет работать хорошо, возможно будут скрипеть...

[Romario]

что возможно будет скрипеть? Ротора?

[JBT BRAKES]

все будет зависеть от сочетания фрикционной пары...

[Bart]

хочу ап рейсинг:)

[v1r2al]

а что все таки про wilwood можно сказать? если например я много не езжу, отсутствие пыльников какое влияние будет иметь?

[Bart]

Макс никакое не будет влияние) ребята на хонды ставят зимой и летом одним цветом))
если нужны вилвуды по норм цене обращайтесь;)

[sukruslan]

я бы не стал ставить тормоза без пыльников, особенно при наличии огромного выбора тормозов с пыльниками.

[useless]

Рус, ты, как лютый гонщег должен знать, что на реально боевых телегах в боевых режимах пыльники сгорают!)
на вилвудах кстати пыльники есть, но они типа металлические! Илюхе человек, торгующий ими в штатах, скинул целый трактат на эту тему, оч похожий на правду )) придет, может выложит

[Ilyxa]

Ловите трактат, на английском он правда

Hi,

If you are talking about dust boot in the calipers, these calipers do not
have any. Here is my opinion about Wilwood caliper and boots after using and
selling them for 20+ years:

This is a rubber concertina style boot which snaps into the caliper around
the piston or pistons and onto the piston protrusion itself. This "bellows"
configuration allows the piston to move in and out of the caliper without
contamination from the environment. Road grime, dirt and especially moisture
can corrode production type caliper pistons leading to premature failure of
the piston seals rendering the caliper inoperable.

Vehicle manufacturers typically design their products around a minimum
criteria list which almost never includes special materials for components
such as caliper pistons. Many production style caliper pistons are therefore
aluminum or other easily corrodible metal for obvious reasons, not least of
which is cost. It is less expensive by far to make aluminum pistons and
rubber boots than to make stainless steel pistons for example. A huge
percentage of production car calipers HAVE to have dust boots or they may
not last to the end of the warranty.

Aside from some of the obvious weight and capacity drawbacks of production
calipers, dust boots can be a hazard to high performance drivers. Brake
components are designed to convert all that motion to heat energy and then
dissipate that heat. The heating and cooling cycle occurs with higher
frequency under spirited, or race driving conditions where it is not unusual
to develop enough heat to make rotors glow red hot. Radiant and conducted
heat developed under hard driving conditions can easily heat the calipers to
the point where the brake fluid boils and the boots burn. Dust boots are not
installed on true racing calipers.

The best solution for safe and reliable high performance calipers is to
eliminate the rubber boots, build pistons from good quality, non-corroding
stainless steel and make sure the caliper bores are anodized. We have been
supplying such calipers for high performance street and race use for over 20
years without complaint. Our experience has been that companies who do build
aftermarket calipers with dust boots make an issue of this fact to justify
the exorbitant cost of their products.

If we examine the dynamics of caliper function we see that the pistons
actually, stay pretty well where they are and the brake dust coats that part
which protrudes from the caliper body. A typical brake application cycle
sees about 0.20 mm (1/5 mm) of travel per piston. There is about 3 or 4mm of
piston bore outboard of the hydraulic "O" ring before the piston sees the
outside atmosphere. In that area the clearance between the piston and bore
is around 0.075mm. It takes a pretty small dust particle to travel all the
way to the hydraulic O-ring and when it gets there it's typically too small
to create any real havoc. So, you get dirt building up on the exposed part
of the pistons and that's about it.

Problems develop when it's time to change pads and your production oriented
brake technician simply presses the pistons back in with a clamp and shoves
all that dirt into the cylinder past the seal. The "trick" is to scrub the
piston protrusion with a stiff tooth brush and soapy solution, then blow dry
BEFORE you shove them back into the caliper...
The down side is that it takes and extra 30 minutes (on a bad day) to change
pads which you may have to do every 50,000 km or so on a street driven
vehicle. Amortized over a year or two that's not a big chunk of your life or
your paycheck.

The upside is that a regular guy can afford to purchase a serious brake
upgrade that works every bit as well as that $3500 Alcon or AP system he's
been looking at. And if he really decides to drive all that horsepower he
'shoehorned' into the engine bay he won't be retiring early (as the
competition may) because his dust boots are on fire....

[sukruslan]

если честно много не знал о чем пишет этот чувак. вот эта фраза удивила правда: The down side is that it takes and extra 30 minutes (on a bad day) to change pads which you may have to do every 50,000 km or so on a street driven vehicle.


я спрошу у спеца, который тормозами занимается его мнение и потом тоже сюда выложу...

[коля]

ну вам сложно перевод было написать ?)
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